My Son

My Son: Cham Kingdom’s Sacred Valley

My Son sits 40 kilometers southwest of Hoi An in the Thu Bon River valley. This was the spiritual center of the Cham Kingdom, which ruled central and southern Vietnam for over a thousand years. Between the 4th and 14th centuries, Cham kings built over 70 temples here. About 20 structures survive today.

The History

The Cham people practiced Hinduism, and My Son was their holiest site. Kings were crowned here, religious ceremonies conducted, rulers buried. Think of it as the Cham equivalent of Angkor Wat, though much smaller in scale.

The temples honor Shiva primarily, along with other Hindu deities. The Sanskrit inscriptions on remaining structures tell us about kings, battles, and religious practices. Much of what we know about the Cham Kingdom comes from this site.

American bombing during the Vietnam War destroyed many temples. A Viet Cong base operated nearby, and B-52 strikes leveled entire sections. What remains is impressive, but it’s a fraction of what once stood here.

The Temples

The ruins cluster in several groups, labeled alphabetically by archaeologists. Group B and C contain the most significant structures.

The architecture is distinctive: red brick construction without mortar, intricate carvings, towers that taper toward the sky. The brickwork technique is remarkable. Scholars still debate exactly how the Cham achieved such precise fitting without binding material.

Many towers lean at odd angles now, damaged by bombs and time. Some have been stabilized, others left as they were found. The site has a haunting quality, particularly early morning when mist sits in the valley.

Carvings show apsaras (celestial dancers), scenes from Hindu mythology, and elaborate floral patterns. Much detail has eroded, but enough remains to show the craftsmanship.

Visiting Practically

The site opens at 6:00 AM. Get there early. By 9:00 AM, tour groups from Hoi An arrive in waves. The place transforms from peaceful to crowded within an hour.

Hire a knowledgeable guide. The temples look like piles of old brick without context. A good guide explains the religious significance, architectural techniques, and historical connections. The difference in what you understand and appreciate is substantial.

Wear a hat, bring water, and use sun protection. There’s limited shade, and central Vietnam gets extremely hot March through August.

Plan 2-3 hours for a thorough visit. You can see the main temples in an hour, but that’s rushing.

Getting There

Most visitors come from Hoi An. The drive takes about an hour through countryside and villages.

We arrange private cars with drivers who know the timing. They’ll suggest leaving Hoi An by 5:30-6:00 AM to reach My Son at opening.

Group tours are cheaper but leave later and spend less time at the site. You’ll share the temples with hundreds of others.

Some tours include a performance of Cham dance at the site. It’s culturally relevant but fairly touristy. Skip it if you’re short on time.

Combining with Other Sites

My Son works well combined with the Museum of Cham Sculpture in Da Nang. The museum displays many artifacts from My Son and explains Cham culture in detail. Visit the museum first to understand context, then see My Son.

Some itineraries combine My Son with the Marble Mountains or other Da Nang sites. That makes for a long day but is manageable.

The Reality

My Son doesn’t have Angkor’s scale or Bagan’s visual drama. War damage means you’re looking at ruins of ruins in some cases. The site requires imagination to visualize what once existed.

But for travelers interested in history and willing to engage properly, My Son reveals something important. This was Southeast Asia’s other great Hindu kingdom, contemporary with Angkor, with its own artistic traditions and architectural innovations.

We recommend My Son to clients who’ve enjoyed Angkor or who want to understand Vietnam’s pre-Vietnamese history. The Cham Kingdom is a missing piece in most people’s understanding of the region.

Go early, bring a guide who knows the material deeply, and give it proper time. Approached that way, My Son becomes far more than just another temple ruin.