Phi Phi Island

Phi Phi Islands: Beyond the Crowds

Phi Phi sits between Phuket and Krabi in the Andaman Sea. These limestone islands became famous after “The Beach” filmed at Maya Bay in 2000. That brought mass tourism, which nearly destroyed what made the place special. Maya Bay closed for four years to recover and now operates under strict limits.

Understanding Phi Phi means understanding there are actually two main islands with very different characters.

Phi Phi Don: The Inhabited Island

This is where everyone stays. The main village, Tonsai, sits on a narrow strip of land between two bays. It’s dense, chaotic, and loud. Fire shows on the beach, bass-heavy bars, budget hotels stacked together. If you’re looking for peace, Tonsai village isn’t it.

But the rest of Phi Phi Don is different. The northern and eastern coasts have quiet beaches and better resorts, separated from the party zone. Long Beach, Laem Tong, and the eastern bays offer what most European travelers actually want: clear water, decent accommodation, and distance from the noise.

Phi Phi Leh: The Uninhabited One

This smaller island contains Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon, and Viking Cave. No one lives here. It’s all dramatic cliffs, hidden lagoons, and turquoise water.

Maya Bay reopened in 2022 with new rules. Only 375 visitors per hour, no boats allowed inside the bay, limited time on the beach. It’s better managed now, though still busy. Go early morning or late afternoon for fewer people.

Pileh Lagoon is the more impressive sight anyway. A circular lagoon surrounded by cliffs, water so clear you can see fish from 10 meters above. Most day tours stop here for swimming.

Where to Stay

Zeavola Resort on Laem Tong beach is the best option for travelers who want quality. Traditional teak villas, excellent Thai restaurant, isolated northern location. You’re 30 minutes by longtail boat from Tonsai, which is exactly the point.

Holiday Inn Resort sits on the quieter east side. Reliable international standard, good pool, family-friendly. Less character than Zeavola but solid and well-managed.

Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort on Loh Ba Gao Bay offers another escape from the main village. Hillside bungalows, private beach, dive center on-site.

If you must stay in Tonsai village, PP Charlie Beach Resort is the best of limited options. Beachfront location, relatively quiet section, reasonable rates.

The Diving

Phi Phi offers decent diving, though it’s not Thailand’s best. Visibility runs 10-25 meters depending on season. You’ll see reef sharks, leopard sharks, moray eels, and healthy coral at better sites.

Popular dive sites include Hin Daeng, Hin Muang, and the King Cruiser Wreck. Most dive shops run day trips from Phi Phi Don. The operations are professional and equipment is well-maintained.

Getting There

Ferries run from both Phuket (90 minutes) and Krabi (90 minutes). Multiple companies operate, multiple departures daily. Book through your hotel or a reliable agent, not random beach touts.

Seas get rough May through October during monsoon season. Ferries still run but crossings can be uncomfortable. November through April offers calmer water.

There’s no airport on Phi Phi. You’ll fly into Phuket or Krabi, then transfer to the pier.

When to Go

November through March is peak season. Dry, calm seas, perfect beach weather. Also crowded and expensive.

April and May are hot but manageable. June through October brings rain and rough seas, but also fewer tourists and better rates. Some resorts close during low season.

The Reality

Phi Phi has a reputation problem, and it’s partly deserved. Tonsai village is overdeveloped and can feel trashy. Day-trippers flood Maya Bay even with new restrictions. The main beaches get packed.

But we still send clients here when they choose the right location. Stay away from Tonsai village. Book a resort on the quieter beaches. Set expectations appropriately.

Phi Phi’s natural beauty is real. The limestone cliffs, the water clarity, the dramatic landscapes, they’re all genuinely spectacular. You just need to be strategic about how and where you experience them.

If you want pristine and undiscovered, look elsewhere. If you can accept Phi Phi for what it is now and plan accordingly, it still offers memorable days on the water.